tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-76861146513508061462024-03-08T14:19:41.409+00:00Flounder's MindThotsDirect from dendrites to display!Flounderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10833480240480323762noreply@blogger.comBlogger154125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7686114651350806146.post-91757018967535635872016-04-06T21:45:00.002+01:002016-04-06T21:46:03.261+01:00Pilot Elite Pocket Pen review (1970's crosshatch version)<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Pilot%20Elite%20Isaac%20Newton/Pilot%20Elite%20A6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Pilot%20Elite%20Isaac%20Newton/Pilot%20Elite%20A6.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>The Pilot Elite, clipped to an A6 notebook.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I hardly ever review pens. Partly that's due to general reticence, partly god-knows-what! Anyway reviews are enough of a rarity for me to tootle the old horn when I actually trot one out. If you've been considering a Japanese pocket pen at all, follow the link below for my impressions of a 1976 Pilot Elite, with crosshatch steel cap.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/306671-pilot-elite-crosshatch-pocket-pen-review/" target="_blank">http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/306671-pilot-elite-crosshatch-pocket-pen-review/</a><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Pilot%20Elite%20Isaac%20Newton/Pilot%20Elite%20overview.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Pilot%20Elite%20Isaac%20Newton/Pilot%20Elite%20overview.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>The Pilot Elite, cap posted: it's rather smashing.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />Flounderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10833480240480323762noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7686114651350806146.post-73265518221948201372016-03-29T00:58:00.001+01:002016-03-29T11:06:10.297+01:00Fountain Pen Demonstrator CapsWhat's up with demonstrators?<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Lucky%20659/Lucky%20Pilot%20Mashup.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Lucky%20659/Lucky%20Pilot%20Mashup.jpg" height="411" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>The steel Lucky nib and chrome trim demonstrator cap <br />paired with the Pilot pen. They also complement the <br />silver nib size sticker on the barrel.</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Recently, I reviewed a Lucky 659 fountain pen (a Chinese clone of the Pilot 78G). While it has some interesting elements, the gestalt is less than the sum of its parts (details in the <a href="http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/304999-lucky-659-wing-sung-659/" target="_blank">review over at the fountainpennetwork</a>). I’ve dropped the best - the cap and nib – into my 78G.<br />
<br />
This let me ditch the Pilot 78G’s showy gold plated nib,
clip and painted cap trim in favour of a tasteful chrome and
steel combo not offered in the original range, and a little more in sync
with the 78G’s functional appeal as a capable and inexpensive
entry-level fountain pen.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Lucky%20659/Lucky%20659%20Pilot78G%20overview.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Lucky%20659/Lucky%20659%20Pilot78G%20overview.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>The Japanese Pilot 78G (green) and <br />Chinese Lucky 659 (clear demonstrator) <br />side by side.</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
In doing so, I was struck by the agreeable change in aesthetic brought on
by the opaque body, transparent cap mash-up, and started to write this
post in the hope of articulating the cascade of questions currently
besetting my synapses like the bulls of Bashan. <br />
<br />
Firstly, a brief, baseless background on demonstrator pens, stated with all the authority of an internet eqipped dilettante who's done some light reading in sporadic bursts a while back. Demonstrator fountain pens started off as sales aide. Transparent plastics helped show off the particular features, capacities and workings of the model, which were often an important means of product differentiation before cheap ballpoints radically changed the focus of the writing instrument sector. These demonstrators were <i>not </i>made generally available to the customer, and vintage demonstrators command a premium today due to this exclusivity .<br />
<br />
Modern demonstrators show off the internals in the same way, but form part of the model line included with the range of opaque and translucent colours, often as limited editions. Examples include the clear Pelikan M1000, Pilot 823, or Onoto Magna.<br />
<br />
Well, here's my hangup: Of the demonstrator pens you can think of, are there any where the cap alone plays the demonstrative rôle? I'm struggling to think of any. A google search dredged up only<a href="http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/249621-did-this-half-demonstrator-come-from-mb/" target="_blank"> this Montblanc</a>, but even then the owner questioned whether the cap ever belonged to the pen.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Lucky%20659/Pilot78G%20with%20Lucky%20Cap.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Lucky%20659/Pilot78G%20with%20Lucky%20Cap.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>The Lucky cap on the Pilot, before its </i></b><b><i><i><b><br /></b></i>gold plated nib was swapped out.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
This state of affairs is a surprise! Take the case of the Montblanc mentioned above. What a fantastic way to showcase the nib! Additionally, isn't it refreshing to see the unbroken line of the pen's comfortable cigar shape?<br />
<br />
To achieve a similar effect, many pens are designed with a step between section and barrel, so that the cap is flush while the pen is not in use; in so doing, uncapped appearance and tactile writing comfort are sacrificed. In my opinion, this compromise can range from the acceptable to the perfectly foul (modern <a href="https://esterbrookpen.com/j-collection/" target="_blank">Esterbrook J</a>).<br />
<br />
So... why has the cap-demonstrator never taken off? There seems to be an unwritten rule against them, fixed as the laws of the Persians and Medes. Most pens at rest flaunt surface, finish and adornment, the clip
typically being the visual focal point.<br />
<br />
Why not eschew the
decorations and make a feature of the business end - the nib itself? On function-centric brands like Franklin Christoph, I feel clear caps would make for a great signature look, advertising those Masuyama-tailored nibs and complementing their classically lathed bodies very well.<br />
<br />
While I'm pontificating, for the most part even conventional demonstrator pens aren't fitted with clear inner caps. Very few lend an unobstructed view of the nib. The reasons I've seen cited for this are a) to hide any messy-looking nib creep or cap venting, and b) to prevent sunlight from drying out the nib.<br />
<br />
But doesn't that messy-look charge apply
equally - or rather, far more - to a conventional demonstrator's section? An ink
saturated feed is hardly the cleanest looking thing; if anything it
flaunts messiness.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Lucky%20659/Demo%20Caps.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Lucky%20659/Demo%20Caps.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Caps from full-demonstrator pens: <br />Lamy Vista, Pilot Custom Heritage 92<br /> (well.. smoke rather than clear), Lucky 659.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
As for sunlight drying out the ink, it seems unlikely. After all, there are plenty of demonstrators with transparent barrels through which the ink level can be seen. I've observed no ill effects in the last month using this Pilot/Lucky combo - though this is of course evidence of one, and admittedly Scotland at the end of March is not an environment likely to beam Ra's wrath through a transparent cap!<br />
<br />
Do you too wish to voice a scantily researched, ill-qualified opinion on this matter? Post a comment below!Flounderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10833480240480323762noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7686114651350806146.post-52826289882744967182016-02-16T21:01:00.001+00:002016-02-16T21:01:20.131+00:00Flounder's First Light TentWow, I haven't posted on the blog for an age and a half! Let's start with my first ever photo taken with a light tent.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Lucky%20659/Pilot78G%20with%20Lucky%20Cap.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Lucky%20659/Pilot78G%20with%20Lucky%20Cap.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>Con-tent (sorry) - a Pilot 78G fountain pen, with a Lucky 659 demonstrator cap.</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
It's a clutter-reducing 30x30x30 eBay cheapie which arrived today, branded Phot-R. The tent seems to have done a surprisingly decent job diffusing shadows, which is pretty good going considering I only used a single light source! With this inexpensive piece of kit, I hope to banish February's awful evening lighting conditions enough to take clear photos.<br />
<br />
I'll be starting with a review of the Lucky 659 - it's a clone of Pilot's discontinued 78G fountain pen, and adds some finishes that weren't available in Pilot's original range. Lucky have thrown in a few quirks for good measure too!Flounderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10833480240480323762noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7686114651350806146.post-10205189949999959322015-03-05T22:07:00.001+00:002015-03-08T20:20:23.651+00:00Another Parker 51 Pen Tube Giveaway<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/FMT%20Hard%20-%20Soft%20Parker%2051%20Pen%20Tubes/FMTPenTubes005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/FMT%20Hard%20-%20Soft%20Parker%2051%20Pen%20Tubes/FMTPenTubes005.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>Pen tube. Want one?</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
[UPDATE: The FPGeeks forum is back up and running!]<br />
[<strike><i>The purpose of this post was going to be a short announcement of a PIF (Pay It Forward) giveaway on the FPGeeks forum, which went live there last night. As luck would have it, today the forum is down along with the <a href="http://www.fpgeeks.com/timeout.html" target="_blank">rest of the site</a>, and going by the <a href="http://www.reddit.com/r/fountainpens/comments/2y0jlb/fpgeeks/" target="_blank">Reddit</a> discussion around this surprise, when it is back up is anyone's guess.</i></strike><br />
<i><br /></i>
<span style="background-color: white;"><i>This is my first PIF on FPGeeks after being given my first pen wrap there, and it means a lot to be passing on something to that community in my own small way. <strike>Hopefully, the forum (which so far as I can see is not the source of contention anyway) will be back up soon; if not, I'll post it on the <a href="http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/" target="_blank">fountainpennetwork</a>, where most of us also have membership.</strike></i>]</span><br />
<br />
Anyhoo: the giveaway is of another soft-on-the-inside, hard-on-the-outside Parker 51 (or 61) daily carry tube. This version is a slight improvement over the <a href="http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/280536-pif-parker-51-pen-tube-with-hard-and-soft-protection/" target="_blank">one PIF'd on FPN</a> a few months ago. The ethos remains the same:<br />
<br />
<ul style="text-align: center;">
<li>hard exterior, soft interior protection for a daily carry pen,</li>
<li> small enough to toss in a day bag with the rest of your gear,</li>
<li>but strong enough to ward off damage. </li>
</ul>
<br />
<h3>
The major change... </h3>
is in the cap, which is put together in a way that looks neater, makes better use of the available space, and now presents the 51's celluloid cap jewel with an uninterrupted expanse of 100% silk. It's kitted out with a nitrile rubber O ring for added security too.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/FMT%20Hard%20-%20Soft%20Parker%2051%20Pen%20Tubes/FMT%20Pen%20Tubes%20jewel%20foam-silk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/FMT%20Hard%20-%20Soft%20Parker%2051%20Pen%20Tubes/FMT%20Pen%20Tubes%20jewel%20foam-silk.jpg" height="536" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>The hard shell of the Diamine screw cap contains an impact<br /> absorbing cushion of 6mm thick soft foam,<br /> lined in 100% silk.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<h3>
Everything else... </h3>
<br />
is as before:<br />
The <b>outside </b>is a rigid PET plastic preform (approx 3mm thick), which is an excellent hard barrier against crushing, bending, twisting, scratching and cutting forces. Hostile synonyms are no match! Shattering - pah! Smashing -pishaw! Spiflicating - pish tosh!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/FMT%20Hard%20-%20Soft%20Parker%2051%20Pen%20Tubes/FMT%20Pen%20Tubes%20size%20comparison%20w%20specs%2051%2061.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/FMT%20Hard%20-%20Soft%20Parker%2051%20Pen%20Tubes/FMT%20Pen%20Tubes%20size%20comparison%20w%20specs%2051%2061.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Size comparison with Parker 51, 61, and a pair of specs. <br />Background - a nifty new 4 pen cloth wrap from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/alc3261" target="_blank">alc3261</a>.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The <b>inside </b>is lined with 3mm thick non-toxic, UV resistant closed cell soft foam (60 on the 00 shore scale), to absorb the stress of impact strikes and abrasion. To protect the 51's delicate celluloid jewels against the<br />
concentrated force of end on strikes, the top and bottom get 6mm of foam, lined in 100% silk.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/FMT%20Hard%20-%20Soft%20Parker%2051%20Pen%20Tubes/FMT%20Pen%20Tubes%20foam%20lining.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/FMT%20Hard%20-%20Soft%20Parker%2051%20Pen%20Tubes/FMT%20Pen%20Tubes%20foam%20lining.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>The sole in-focus photo I managed to snap <br />of the tube's soft foam interior lining.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<h3>
BIG THANKS...</h3>
to <a href="http://www.diamineinks.co.uk/" target="_blank">Diamine Inks</a> for the supply of speckled style caps, hugely appreciated guys & gals.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/FMT%20Hard%20-%20Soft%20Parker%2051%20Pen%20Tubes/FMT%20Pen%20Tubes%204%20in%20a%20row.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/FMT%20Hard%20-%20Soft%20Parker%2051%20Pen%20Tubes/FMT%20Pen%20Tubes%204%20in%20a%20row.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>Last group photo before they go their separate ways <br />(one is already en route to Alabama).</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
Superfluous photo slideshow:</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe height="360" src="http://s773.photobucket.com/user/flounder2009/embed/slideshow/FMT%20Hard%20-%20Soft%20Parker%2051%20Pen%20Tubes" width="480"></iframe></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
I do hope the FPGeeks forum makes a speedy return. If you think you'd find this PIF useful, here's a direct link to my ill-fated post, assuming the forum comes online again soon:</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="http://fpgeeks.com/forum/showthread.php/10832-Parker-51-Daily-Carry-Pen-Tube-with-Hard-amp-Soft-Protection" target="_blank">http://fpgeeks.com/forum/showthread.php/10832-Parker-51-Daily-Carry-Pen-Tube-with-Hard-amp-Soft-Protection</a></div>
Flounderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10833480240480323762noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7686114651350806146.post-37638087169014110472015-01-27T17:00:00.000+00:002015-01-27T17:00:03.132+00:00It's Five O'Clock.It's Five O'Clock...<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/bWKQyQ3aCpk" width="420"></iframe><br /></div>
<br />
RIP Demis Roussos.Flounderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10833480240480323762noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7686114651350806146.post-41623708267081806642014-12-15T22:22:00.003+00:002014-12-23T17:49:19.406+00:00Parker 51 Pen Tube Giveaway<span style="background-color: orange;"><i><b>[Update: this PIF has ended, and the Parker 51 tube is off to sunny Portugal! Thank you for all the positive feedback, entrants. Merry Christmas everyone!] </b></i></span><br />
<span style="background-color: orange;"><br /></span>
I've a PIF (Pay It Forward) giveaway live on the Fountain Pen Network, <a href="http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/280536-pif-parker-51-pen-tube-with-hard-and-soft-protection/" target="_blank">ending at 8 p.m. ish GMT, Sunday 21st of December</a>. I've made a couple of "daily carry" pen tubes for Parker 51s, as photographed below, and giving one of them (the best made one) away. For a chance to win, just follow the link above to drop me a PM.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/FMT%20Hard%20-%20Soft%20Parker%2051%20Pen%20Tubes/FMTPenTubes003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/FMT%20Hard%20-%20Soft%20Parker%2051%20Pen%20Tubes/FMTPenTubes003.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>FMT pen tubes. Do you recognise the caps?</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Excuse me while I Ctrl-V what I wrote on FPN earlier. Ah, here it is!<br />
<i><br /></i>
"I wanted to make something that would be good protection for a daily
carry pen, small enough to toss in a day bag with the rest of your
gear, but strong enough to ward off damage. The inside of a day bag at
walking pace can be a surprisingly hostile place, with jangling keys,
spare change, and a heavy laptop all ready to do their worst." <br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>"The outside is a rigid PET plastic preform (approx 3mm thick),
which is an excellent hard barrier against crushing, bending, twisting,
scratching and cutting forces. Hostile synonyms are no match! Shattering
- pah! Smashing - pishaw! Spiflicating - pish tosh!</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>The inside is lined with 3mm thick non-toxic, UV resistant closed
cell soft foam (60 on the 00 shore scale), to absorb the stress of
impact strikes and abrasion. To protect the 51's delicate celluloid
jewels against the concentrated force of end on strikes, the top and
bottom get 6mm of foam, lined in 100% silk.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>The screw cap is a repurposed Diamine ink bottle cap. If you're going to make a pen tube, you may as well do it in style!"</li>
</ul>
<br />
<ul>
</ul>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/FMT%20Hard%20-%20Soft%20Parker%2051%20Pen%20Tubes/FMTPenTubessilklined6mmfoamcap.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/FMT%20Hard%20-%20Soft%20Parker%2051%20Pen%20Tubes/FMTPenTubessilklined6mmfoamcap.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>The cap's silk lined interior. I wasted a tremendous amount of silk!</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<h1>
<span style="color: #3d85c6;">Why bother?
</span></h1>
Well...here's the thing. I just don't get leather pen cases - those portable, 1-4 pen slot ones, have a look at <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36M6dexYLk0" target="_blank">Pelahale</a>'s excellent YouTube channel to see what I mean. Why are leather fountain pen cases so popular? It beats me hollow. Possibly the same reason impractically hot-in-the-summer, cold-in-the-winter leather jackets are popular; they look <i>great</i>...<br />
<br />
But leather offers minimal protection from bashing or crushing, despite also being bulky enough to make me wince when I see a pen clip forced over it. The inside is much rougher than a cloth pen wrap too (I've one of <a href="http://fpgeeks.com/forum/showthread.php/7095-PIF-Pen-Wrap?p=89196&viewfull=1#post89196" target="_blank">Alc3261</a>'s cloth wraps, which gives great soft protection). Who wants to slide their vintage pen with 60+ year old plating & marginal imprints in and out of a strop every day? Not this fellow, I can tell you.<br />
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So... what's the point of leather pen cases? They've none of the "hard on the outside, soft on the inside" properties you'd think desirable. Those pen tubes Onoto sell, and to a lesser extent the cardboard tubes Retro51 ship their pens in, strike me as a better proposition. Both are lined with soft foam inside, and while I've never used an Onoto pen tube, the Retro51 shipping tube is surprisingly sturdy, despite its cardboard construction.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/FMT%20Hard%20-%20Soft%20Parker%2051%20Pen%20Tubes/FMTPenTubesizecomparisonwithRetro51.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/FMT%20Hard%20-%20Soft%20Parker%2051%20Pen%20Tubes/FMTPenTubesizecomparisonwithRetro51.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>Size comparison with a Retro51 packaging tube.</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
Theirs was the righteous path to follow! I had wanted to make a decent daily carry pen case for a while; <br />
the penny dropped when I realised that (1) those beautiful speckled
Diamine ink bottle caps use a thread size universally prevalent in
plastic soda and water bottle tops, and (2) those same bottles start out
life as small 'parison tubes', lightweight and ultra strong. Huzzah!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/FMT%20Hard%20-%20Soft%20Parker%2051%20Pen%20Tubes/FMTPenTubes002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/FMT%20Hard%20-%20Soft%20Parker%2051%20Pen%20Tubes/FMTPenTubes002.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>The abortive, fully silk lined foam interior.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I don't know if all parison tubes are the same as those I bought; unfortunately, they are not pure cylinders on the inside, with a slight choke and flair. This scuppered my plans to line the interior throughout with silk - at least this time around... Still, the foam itself is very soft and giving.<br />
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I realise this is kind of an opinionated post. What do <i>you </i>think? Am I being unfair to leather cases? Talking out of my hat? Making with the funny stuff?<br />
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More photos:</div>
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<br />Flounderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10833480240480323762noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7686114651350806146.post-78104444587613249792014-11-04T17:42:00.000+00:002014-11-04T18:14:12.176+00:00Blu Tack: A Fab Fountain Pen Diagnostic and Servicing Tool<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Blutack/BlutackPraxisKit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Blutack/BlutackPraxisKit.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Blutack! A fountain pen Praxis Kit. </i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The ochre-hued days of Autumn have drawn to a close. This post has sat in the drafts list too long! <a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/dna/ptop/plain/A493553" target="_blank">Blu Tack</a>, eh? Any introduction would probably be redundant. You know the stuff - squishy, tacky, non toxic play-dough for adults.<br />
<br />
I've been consistently surprised by its versatility as a fountain pen diagnostic and repair tool, as you'll probably be too aware of if you frequent the same online forums I enthuse about it on. Formerly scattered around individual threads, I've finally pulled together a list of uses below. Blogger is still shamelessly awful at anchor links, so scroll down to see Blu Tack - <br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
As Section Pliers </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
As A Third Hand </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Cleaning Threads</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Removing Friction Fit Nibs And Feeds From Chinese Cartridge Pens</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Cleaning Polish Residue From Awkward Spots</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Revealing leaks</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Removing Cap Jewels</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
As A Diagnostic Temporary Sealant</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>
As Section Pliers </h3>
I can't lay claim to this one, as I'd previously read of Blu Tack's ability to grip and twist off screw down wristwatch case backs (which I can attest to myself, it's quite remarkable). <br />
<br />
As section pliers, Blu Tack has several splendid qualities. The standout feature is grip. In the photo below, the Blu Tack easily unscrewed a case back from a wristwatch despite being applied only to its thin steel circumference. You'd think it would struggle with such a smooth surface, but it adheres excellently without the need for heavy pressure.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Parnis%20Power%20Reserve%20Review/ParnisIIgreasedrotorbearings008large-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Parnis%20Power%20Reserve%20Review/ParnisIIgreasedrotorbearings008large-1.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Mere mortal steel holds no fear for Blu Tack!</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Being a malleable putty, there's also <a href="http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/275542-parker-51-vacumatic-questions/#entry3139995" target="_blank">no chance of scratching a pen's finish in use</a>. This characteristic also helps maximise the surface area being torqued, molding to complex contours & curves that don't lend themselves particularly well to gripping. This reduces the clamping force the pen has to be subjected to, always a boon with aging materials.<br />
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By way of an example, I had a Sheaffer Targa nib unit that needed taken apart, to reseal the leaking inlay (actually, every Targa I've used needed the inlay resealed, barring a sole NOS unit I bought). It was an absolute pig to open. All Targa nib units are made of rather thin injection molded plastic, have a slopey-swoopy shape, and have a threaded join at the cap retention ring. Either the glue bonding this one together was still fresh, or more than the norm was used, or both. Blu Tack's high torque, low clamping pressure qualities broke the glue bond, not the plastic, and left the finish unmarked. Huzzah!<br />
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<h3>
As A Third Hand</h3>
A thick blob of Blu Tack really helps when you need extra hands. For instance, I wanted to roll this Summit's badly bent lever flat, which meant having to first extract the J bar and ring. The Blu Tack held the pen steady while my left hand manually pressed the J bar with a thin screwdriver, and my right drew it from the barrel using long nosed pliers. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Summit%20S125/SummitS125JBarRemoval007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Summit%20S125/SummitS125JBarRemoval007.jpg" height="222" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>J bar extraction, with blutack in attendance... </i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Removing the ring from a celluloid lever filler can be quite scary, especially when the celluloid is this beautiful. Force is being concentrated in a small area of fragile-ish material that may be getting on in years. As well as holding the pen steady as the ring is being compressed, Blu Tack 's compressibility helps cushion the barrel from stress forces in a way the rigid wooden desk below it cannot. <br />
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Summit%20S125/SummitS125LeverRemoval008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Summit%20S125/SummitS125LeverRemoval008.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>... then removing the lever's ring</b>.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<h3>
Cleaning Threads</h3>
I like vintage pens. Back in the day, they were very much tools to be used all day every day, so I find it a surprise they can be so colourful and evocative. On first receipt, the celluloid barrel of the Summit below, for example, puts me in mind of a lush forest floor. The crud lodged in the cap-to-barrel threads, however, put me more in mind of 50 years' worth of nose picking, bum scratching soap-dodgers who may have used the pen before me.<br />
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Prior to a good wash, a wrap of Blu Tack pressed into the threads, then peeled off, lifts any stubborn manky gunk right out!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Summit%20S125/SectionThreadCleaning.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Summit%20S125/SectionThreadCleaning.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Lifting stubborn, decades old debris from cap - to - barrel threads.<br /> To quote Frasier Crane; "Oh dear God!"</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<h3>
Removing Friction Fit Nibs And Feeds From Chinese Cartridge Pens</h3>
Chinese cheapies can be fun and very inexpensive. Sometimes you get a nice surprise that punches well above its weight,sometimes... not. Build quality and tolerances can be all over the place. The vast majority of Chinese cheapies are cartridge fillers with friction fit nibs and feeds.<br />
<br />
If you happen to find the feed needs work on one, it can be a challenge to remove without marring the nib or breaking the delicate feed fins. The presence of a cartridge nipple makes using a knock out block a bit tricky. A fat blob of Blu Tack fills the fins and protects them from stress, avoids cartridge nipple damage, and keeps ahold of the nib and feed as the section is pulled away from them (see <a href="http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/259172-is-it-possible-to-take-a-hero-704-completely-apart/#entry2929070" target="_blank">this FPN thread for an example</a>).<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Generic%20Chinese%20FP%20Friction%20Fit%20Nib%20Removal/GenericChineseFrictionfitNibampFeedRemoval.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Generic%20Chinese%20FP%20Friction%20Fit%20Nib%20Removal/GenericChineseFrictionfitNibampFeedRemoval.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>Removing a nib and feed from a Chinese cartridge pen (a Baoer 388).</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<h3>
</h3>
<h3>
Cleaning Out Polish Residue From Awkward Spots</h3>
The polishes I use now (Greygate and Novus) don't tend to leave much residue, but for any awkward nooks and crannies (such as the breather hole in the barrel photographed below) Blu Tack will reach where you can't! <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Blutack/PolishResidueRemoversmall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Blutack/PolishResidueRemoversmall.jpg" height="266" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>A twirl in a sheet of Blutack pulls polish residue<br /> from this Hero 616 barrel breather hole.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<h3>
</h3>
<h3>
</h3>
<h3>
Pinpointing Hard To See Ink Leaks </h3>
Can you see the section split in the photo below? I couldn't - and what with having several fountain pens inked at once, finding the finger-staining culprit was a puzzle. Using Blu Tack came to me in a spur-of-the-moment brainwave. A thin length wrapped around the fluted section, then peeled off, revealed a tell-tale ink stain on the Blu Tack, indicating the area that had split. I first wrote this tip on <a href="http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/261924-146-149-ink-leaking-onto-the-section/" target="_blank">FPN </a>a while ago.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Duofold%20AF/DuofoldSection.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Duofold%20AF/DuofoldSection.jpg" height="320" width="258" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>Blutack finds hairline splits your eyes might otherwise miss!<br /> The section shown was BHR and so had to <br />be replaced, unfortunately.</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<h3>
Removing Parker 51 Cap Jewels</h3>
I use Blu Tack instead of a rubber pad to unscrew Parker 51 celluloid jewels (heat is still necessary to soften the sealant). A rubber pad is pretty good, as it can slip if the sealant holding the jewel is still too strong, sparing the jewel from breakage. A thin strip (direct out of packet thickness) of Blu Tack goes one better - it can <i>shear</i>, which enables it to act as a rudimentary torque wrench. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/RolledSilverEnglishParker51Aeroblutack.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/RolledSilverEnglishParker51Aeroblutack.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Pressing a Parker 51 cap into a sheet of Blu Tack to unscrew the jewel.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<h3>
</h3>
<h3>
<br />
As A Diagnostic Temporary Sealant</h3>
Blu Tack is an excellent temporary barrel seal. It can be applied quickly, leaves nothing to clean off internal threads (as it is not applied to them), seals well, and is easily removed.<br />
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I'd previously only applied Blu Tack in this way to test self-filler projects so <a href="http://flounders-mindthots.blogspot.com/2012/08/hero-616-vacumatic-conversion.html" target="_blank">obscure</a>, I never figured anyone else would find the idea useful! When <a href="http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/229925-will-a-snorkel-work-if-the-feed-doesnt-stick-out-the-back-of-the-tube/" target="_blank">the question came up on FPN</a>, I realised that had I given it some thought, there are plenty of situations where it would be helpful to have a temporary seal; to test aspects of a fountain pen's functionality before permanently sealing, rule out failed rubber gaskets, and so on.<br />
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Anyhoo, you simply wrap Blu Tack round the join as shown in the photo below, or <a href="http://youtu.be/GlEHVOl37eA?t=15s" target="_blank">this YouTube clip</a> :<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Blutack/Blutackbarrelseal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Blutack/Blutackbarrelseal.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Using Blu Tack to test a Hero 616 vacumatic mod, <br /> prior to permanently sealing with shellac.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I think that's the lot! I can only think of one caveat - wash after use (I tend to clean fountain pen parts after disassembly anyway). Blu Tack can stain wallpaper if left for years, so while any risk is probably non existent, being certain takes very little effort.<br />
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Can you think of any more uses? If you've some more of your own you're inclined to share, do leave a comment!<br />
<br />Flounderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10833480240480323762noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7686114651350806146.post-39719175137940710492014-09-18T23:33:00.001+01:002014-10-13T22:28:17.929+01:00Jinhao 321 Fountain Pen Giveaway<span style="color: orange;"><i><b>[This PIF has now closed, and the Jinhao has found a new home]</b></i></span><br />
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I'm giving away this Jinhao 321 on the Fountain Pen Network's <a href="http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/258092-pay-it-forward-2014/page-63#entry3122533" target="_blank">Pay it Forward</a> thread! If you like slim, light pens, or are looking for an introduction to hooded nib pens, drop me a <a href="http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/user/29904-flounder/" target="_blank">PM </a>on the forum within a week or so.<br />
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<a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Jinhao%20321/Jinhao321bodyshot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Jinhao%20321/Jinhao321bodyshot.jpg" height="414" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>This is the whilom Jinhao 321</b>, not the <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/111442477320/" target="_blank">usurper </a>now going by that moniker. The original is quite a good performer; for more information, here's my <a href="http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/274422-jinhao-321/" target="_blank">review on FPN</a>, and <a href="http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/141747-jinhao-321-review/" target="_blank">RichardandTracy's</a>, which is full of useful details.<br />
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<a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Jinhao%20321/Jinhao321nibmacro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Jinhao%20321/Jinhao321nibmacro.jpg" height="220" width="320" /></a></div>
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If you mean to throw your hat in the ring, bonne chance!Flounderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10833480240480323762noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7686114651350806146.post-87159441662333356562014-06-14T13:36:00.000+01:002014-07-03T13:29:07.666+01:00Retro51 Tornado Bocote Rollerball Pen Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Retro51%20Tornado%20Bocote%20Rollerball%20Review/Retro51BocoteTornadoRollerball039.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Retro51%20Tornado%20Bocote%20Rollerball%20Review/Retro51BocoteTornadoRollerball039.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>The Retro 51 Tornado rollerball pen, in Bocote wood,<br /> in Pheasants Wood, Mugdock.</b></i></td></tr>
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Blimey gov'nor, a rollerball review. I don't know much about rollerballs so was a bit unsure of what was out there, though I did have a fair idea of the qualities I was looking for in one:<br />
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<ul>
<li>A writing experience as close to a fountain pen's as humanly possible.</li>
<li>A non-metal barrel. I just dislike the cold, slippery touch of a metal writing instrument.</li>
<li>A high quality look & feel, with a bit of elan thrown in.</li>
</ul>
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With that in mind, I've picked up a <a href="http://www.retro51.com/" target="_blank">Retro51</a> Tornado, in Bocote hardwood. The Bocote was part of their 'deluxe' range till recently. Although now discontinued, it can still be sourced quite readily online. So! Onward to the review.<br />
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<br />
<span style="color: #3d85c6;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Looks</b></span></span><br />
I was lucky in that I got exactly what I wanted, a dark Bocote with plenty of interesting lines and eyes. It's a great finish that contrasts with the bright metalwork in a pleasing way. Being made of wood, there's a lot of natural variability between examples (more on that below); I've seen photos of other Bocote Tornados that were were plainer and much lighter. With the same bright metalwork, they sail a bit too close to kit-pen island for my tastes.<br />
<br />
I figured natural light would best represent the colour of the Bocote wood in an accurate
way, so charged the camera, laced up the Karrimors, and had a tramp about the great outdoors. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Retro51%20Tornado%20Bocote%20Rollerball%20Review/Retro51BocoteTornadoRollerball018b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Retro51%20Tornado%20Bocote%20Rollerball%20Review/Retro51BocoteTornadoRollerball018b.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>The shiny metal accents are a) very shiny and b) a pain to photograph.</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I like the gentle taper to the barrel, and the proportions are fairly pleasing. What do you think? The little cutout window in the clip is a neat touch; the metal knock is defined by a lip at either end. Something that's not obvious in vendor photographs is the style of the end finial; it's a blank metal circle on this model, matching the mirror finish of the clip.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Retro51%20Tornado%20Bocote%20Rollerball%20Review/Retro51BocoteTornadoRollerball032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Retro51%20Tornado%20Bocote%20Rollerball%20Review/Retro51BocoteTornadoRollerball032.jpg" height="332" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>Mirror finish on the clip and knock finial, matte steel on the knurling.</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<a href="http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/bocote/" target="_blank">Bocote</a>, of course, is an exotic Central and Southern American hardwood. It has a good natural lustre, and the grain patterning can
be quite striking, particularly on flatsawn
areas. It’s not uncommon to see many “eyes” and other figuring in
Bocote: though unlike knots, they do not seem to present any special
challenges in machining.<br />
<br />
Did that sound authoritative? It ought to, being plagia-pasted straight from <a href="http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/bocote/" target="_blank">The Wood Database</a>. I have to admit I'd never heard of Bocote wood till noticing this pen for sale. I just saw this finish and found it more interesting and quirky than the "<a href="http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/goncalo-alves/" target="_blank">Goncalo</a>" version, which was in production at the same time.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Retro51%20Tornado%20Bocote%20Rollerball%20Review/Retro51BocoteTornadoRollerball043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Retro51%20Tornado%20Bocote%20Rollerball%20Review/Retro51BocoteTornadoRollerball043.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>As well as looking good, the Bocote Tornado offers a great tactile experience. <br />The barrel is warm to the touch, and the ski-jump clip <br />snag-free & very easy to use.</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The promise of an interesting,quirky look was certainly fulfilled. "With its striking, zebra-like contrasts, and bold figuring, Bocote can be a very eye-catching wood". I'd agree with that sentiment (thanks once again, lucidly articulate fellows @ <a href="http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/bocote/" target="_blank">The Wood Database</a>). It's double-plus good, I've really no buyer's remorse in the aesthetics department.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Retro51%20Tornado%20Bocote%20Rollerball%20Review/Retro51BocoteTornadoRollerball030.jpg~original" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Retro51%20Tornado%20Bocote%20Rollerball%20Review/Retro51BocoteTornadoRollerball030.jpg~original" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>If you stare at this side of the barrel long enough, <br />it kind of looks like a grumpy Jabba the Hutt is staring back.</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: #3d85c6;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Build Quality</span></b></span><br />
Very good, overall, nothing about the Tornado feels flimsy in hand. There's no side-to-side play in the clip, which is attached securely. All external parts fit flush, and the knurling on the twist action knock is deeply cut. On closer examination, a few features really stand out for special comment.<br />
<br />
The twist action "knock" turns smoothly, with a little mechanical resistance behind it, like a well weighted steering wheel. It engages with a positive action at the very end of its travel too - it feels as if something within is passing over a cam. Peering up the empty barrel with a torch, at least some of the internal knock parts look to be made of sturdy brass, which is reassuring!<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Retro51%20Tornado%20Bocote%20Rollerball%20Review/Retro51BocoteTornadoRollerball038.jpg" height="640" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="480" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>Deeply cut grip knurling on the knock, precision cutouts in the Bocote wood <br />to accommodate the clip. The finial engraving is a curious design.</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
A highlight has to be the Bocote hardwood itself. I've read that the hardwood finishes run a little thicker than the standard laquered steel models, but apart from this one minor concession (for my hand, more of a bonus) the material has been seamlessly incorporated into the standard Tornado design. It looks cohesive, not this year's take on an old concept.<br />
<br />
Where I'd expect the use of wood to pose a manufacturing challenge, I've been pleasantly surprised - look at the precision with which the clip slot has been cut in the photo above. Approximately half of the wooden barrel's length appears to be internally
sleeved for strength, including the area put under pressure by the open
end of the clip. Additionally, the metal nose cone screws into a brass bush, rather than directly into the wood itself.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Retro51%20Tornado%20Bocote%20Rollerball%20Review/Retro51BocoteTornadoRollerball018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Retro51%20Tornado%20Bocote%20Rollerball%20Review/Retro51BocoteTornadoRollerball018.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>A brass bush strengthens the end of the hardwood barrel.</b></i> </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
There are a couple of build quality issues. The worst of a mild pair are the minor manufacturing marks on opposite sides of the barrel, perpendicular to the wood grain, and running the length of the barrel.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Retro51%20Tornado%20Bocote%20Rollerball%20Review/Retro51BocoteTornadoRollerball004.jpg~original" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Retro51%20Tornado%20Bocote%20Rollerball%20Review/Retro51BocoteTornadoRollerball004.jpg~original" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>In a perfect world, these manufacturing marks would be polished out.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The marks are too subtle to mar the pen's looks in any meaningful way - you'd have to look hard to find them in most lighting conditions. The photo above was taken in natural light, and shows how indistinct they are. Arrows highlight the most prominent.<br />
<br />
Another minor annoyance is the slight play between the end of the refill and its nosecone, manifesting in an occasional clicky/tappety noise as the point is lifted on & off the page. Typically, this has been apparent only when using a low writing angle.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Retro51%20Tornado%20Bocote%20Rollerball%20Review/Retro51BocoteTornadoRollerball054.jpg~original" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Retro51%20Tornado%20Bocote%20Rollerball%20Review/Retro51BocoteTornadoRollerball054.jpg~original" height="118" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Retro51 spring, j'accuse!</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I'm not sure where the blame lies for this. Perhaps the tolerance between the refill and the nosecone opening could be tighter. Perhaps it is left loose intentionally; I have read the Tornado can use Parker style refills too. I do suspect the Tornado's spring, which is a bit crudely made compared to my YSL rollerball's (also twist activated and taking the same short Schmidt refills). There's less effort made to make the end coils sit straight for example,and the YSL spring makes better use of the refill's collar. Depending on which way round I fit the spring, I can occasionally hear it squirm against the nosecone as the point is extended or contracted.<br />
<br />
Personally speaking, these are very minor issues that don't add up to much disappointment, there is far too much the manufacturer got very right! I'm happy with the care evidenced in both the design and execution of the Bocote Tornado.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>
</h3>
<span style="color: #3d85c6;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Functionality</span></b></span><br />
I'm mostly a fountain pen guy, I know much less about rollerballs, gel pens, and such. I do understand that non-fountain pens write as well as their refill, so a few words on these.<br />
<br />
The Tornado uses rebranded Schmidt
rollerball refills, which have long stuck in my mind as offering a
near-fountain pen writing experience, being very smooth, with little drag, low viscosity, and allowing a shallower, fountain pen/pencilesque
grip angle than a ballpoint will.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Retro51%20Tornado%20Bocote%20Rollerball%20Review/Retro51BocoteTornadoRollerball048.jpg~original" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Retro51%20Tornado%20Bocote%20Rollerball%20Review/Retro51BocoteTornadoRollerball048.jpg~original" height="385" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>The pen body is made in Taiwan, and the refill in Germany.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
It's been a couple of years since I last used a Schmidt rollerball refill (the fine P8126, in a chrome Yves Saint Laurent pen). Writing with the Tornado's medium P8127 picked up where the P8126 left off; it really offers an outstandingly smooth and consistent writing experience. These are smashing refills; they starts first time every time, despite the unsealed retractable roller, and ink flow is generous, yet composed. While the low viscosity ink takes a few seconds to dry on the page, as a fountain pen user it's a familiar tradeoff I'm happy to accept.<br />
<br />
Yes sir, a joy to use - for as long as they last! The sponge tube within is 5.5cm long. The liquid nature that makes the ink write so agreeably also makes for a fair amount of evaporative loss - note the "1 year cap off time" marking in the photo above. I've never found replacements on the high street, and in the past, actually ordered them in from overseas (they're worth the trouble). Of all the current online suppliers, <a href="http://www.cultpens.com/i/q/SM16248/schmidt-p8127-capless-rollerball-pen-refill-medium" target="_blank">Cult Pens</a> deserves a mention, as a domestic UK supplier allowing you to buy them individually.<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="480" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/tQql1tZshi0?rel=0" width="640"></iframe><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Leisurely notetaking with the hardwood Bocote Tornado in the great outdoors, its natural environment. Except I had to splice in some extra background noise I recorded, due to this clip's inexplicable silence. And I'm awkwardly failing to hold the notebook flat with one knee, as my other hand's holding the smartphone. It's all a sickening, cynical artifice. </i></b></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
As a housing for the super Schmidt refill, I consider the
wood-barreled Tornado better suited than the polished chrome YSL. The
barrel taper is very shallow, and even at its end, the 0.9 cm section
diameter allows a relaxed grip a habitual fountain pen user can
appreciate. The Bocote hardwood is warm to the touch, pleasantly
tactile, and lends the hand good control over the smooth rollerball tip.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Retro51%20Tornado%20Bocote%20Rollerball%20Review/Retro51BocoteTornadoRollerball007.jpg~original" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Retro51%20Tornado%20Bocote%20Rollerball%20Review/Retro51BocoteTornadoRollerball007.jpg~original" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Although a full size pen, the Tornado is handy enough. <br />Here it is with an A6 notebook for context.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I'm a big fan of the clip. Its ski-jump shape is supremely functional,
helping it fasten to pocket or page without snagging (well...most
times), nor the need to prise it up. The end has a fairly wide footprint
too.<br />
<br />
Mentioned earlier, the twist action "knock" is
deeply knurled for a good grip
in use. Additionally, each nodule is a tiny flat topped pyramid rather
than a spike, so they don't dig into your skin.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Retro51%20Tornado%20Bocote%20Rollerball%20Review/Retro51BocoteTornadoRollerball.jpg~original" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Retro51%20Tornado%20Bocote%20Rollerball%20Review/Retro51BocoteTornadoRollerball.jpg~original" height="226" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>The clip does its job well enough.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I did a little asking around on the FPGeeks forum before purchase, and one of the opinions put forward was the Tornado can be a little back heavy. I'd agree - it hasn't been enough of a bother to irritate much while writing, but when typing, pen in hand ready to scribble down ideas or asides (my mind is all over the place like that), I do have to let the barrel rest on my thumb to stop it slipping. Better balanced pens like the Parker 51 will happily stay nestled in the <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZcttxZjsV0" target="_blank">purlicue</a> as I bash away at the keys. There's no cap, which is convenient. Extending and retracting the point does require both hands, though.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: #3d85c6;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Brand/Dealer Interaction</span></b></span><br />
Buying this Tornado was my first interaction with Retro51, and with the <a href="http://www.penshed.co.uk/" target="_blank">Penshed</a>, a UK dealer. I had some questions about the Bocote finish, as the results on Google Images were a bit render-y; I struggled to get a sense of what the pen looked like in real life. Both the manufacturer and Penshed were quick to respond with helpful advice. Their hands were tied by certain policy decisions, but with the photos and info they gave, I was able to make an informed purchase:<br />
<ul>
<li>All Tornado rollerballs are now solely supplied with a black, medium refill. Even the Deluxe range. This is a bit of a shame, as I would have gone for a blue cartridge given the choice. </li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>The packages are sealed, so you won't actually see the pen you're buying till you've bought it, whether in store or online. This is obviously less of a nuisance with the laquered metal models, but if you're looking for the individuality of a hardwood Deluxe model, prepare to be strangers till you rip off the cellophane! Going by a photo Retro51 sent me, there's a 2 in 3 chance of receiving a dark Bocote. I liked those odds and am glad I took a chance.</li>
</ul>
Mine was a very specific circumstance, seeing as the majority of the Tornado range are made from very consistent materials, so I appreciated the creative help I was given to get around the problem. The packaging, in all other respects, is excellent, comprising of soft foam & hard cardboard to protect the pen in transit. It's also small enough to easily fit through a standard letterbox, and the presentation has a unique style.<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: #3d85c6;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Yay/Nay?</span></b></span><br />
<br />
On balance, this one's a definite "<span style="color: #3d85c6;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Yay</span></b></span>" ! <br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Retro51%20Tornado%20Bocote%20Rollerball%20Review/Retro51BocoteTornadoRollerball037.jpg~original" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Retro51%20Tornado%20Bocote%20Rollerball%20Review/Retro51BocoteTornadoRollerball037.jpg~original" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Day 35: Hopelessly lost. I leave this review in the hope <br />that its discovery might shed light on my fate.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
Till next time!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
FlounderFlounderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10833480240480323762noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7686114651350806146.post-24597259465443659572014-05-18T18:56:00.001+01:002014-05-19T00:40:55.511+01:00Japanese Eyedropper Servicing, An Introductory Exploration<b><i>[By "Introductory", I mean servicing eyedroppers is entirely new to me. I'm not an authority on these pens posting some sort of freshman 101 class] </i></b><br />
<br />
It's been a while since I turned my attention to this project; my apologies to those interested. In the last post, the threaded boss was removed from the barrel of a Japanese eyedropper fountain pen, with the ultimate goal of changing the seals. This raised more questions, as the seals appear to be enclosed within the threaded boss rather than held inside the barrel by it.<br />
<br />
At the time, I suspected the textured areas at either end of the boss to somehow provide access - here's a recap of progress so far, uploaded on the 5th. I had to put this project to one side shortly after, till today.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/1bN6DSvG-cw" width="480"></iframe></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
To bring things up to date, a good peer through a loupe and some decent sunlight revealed some extra machining on the blind cap side of the boss; I think the area highlighted is a separate piece, removable from the rest of the boss. It's very hard to make out, but I think a rubber O ring is visible below the recess too.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Japanese%20Eyedropper%20Servicing/BossPlugandShaftToBlindCapThreads001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Japanese%20Eyedropper%20Servicing/BossPlugandShaftToBlindCapThreads001.jpg" height="640" width="600" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>I reckon this bung provides access to the seals.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
So, how to remove it? Some sort of expanding collet? Access would be better without the shut-off shaft in the way, and happily it does look like the shaft can be unscrewed from the blind cap. The awful photo below is the best of a very bad bunch; hopefully you can just about see the shaft threads, which are smeared with some sort of adhesive.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Japanese%20Eyedropper%20Servicing/BossPlugandShaftToBlindCapThreads002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Japanese%20Eyedropper%20Servicing/BossPlugandShaftToBlindCapThreads002.jpg" height="348" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>The blind cap assembly, I've sharpened this photo to help the threads<br />stand out. Sorry about the white balance<br /> and glare.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
I think an overnight soak in glycerine is in order; after that, we'll see about heating and waggling with section pliers to free the shaft from the blind cap.<br />
<br />
<span style="color: orange;"><b>To be continued...</b></span><br />
<br />Flounderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10833480240480323762noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7686114651350806146.post-43869502047173703252014-05-03T19:54:00.002+01:002014-05-06T01:57:26.597+01:00It Works! Casting A C Ring Tool For Obscure Fountain Pens.As you may have read in the preceding posts, lately I've been exploring the idea of casting made to measure C ring tools for servicing obscure fountain pens. After a fortnight's cautious experimentation, I finally felt it was safe to try this out (on a 1930s Japanese eyedropper with ink shut off feature), so let's skip to the chase:<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/CastJapaneseEyedropperCRingToolInAction010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/CastJapaneseEyedropperCRingToolInAction010.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>Ta-da! The BHR threaded boss safely removed from the pen's barrel. <br />The ink shut-off stopper looks to be well preserved.</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
It works! The cast metal epoxy putty C ring made disassembly a breeze - having a tool which matched the pen's threads so precisely was a great help; the pliers' clamping load was well spread, and only a slight, steady pressure was needed as I rotated the barrel.<br />
<br />
<h3>
<span style="color: orange;"><b>What It <i>Is</i></b></span></h3>
A disposable C ring intended to safely manipulate the threaded boss of the proprietary fillers in obscure fountain pens, for the duration of a single restoration.<br />
<br />
<h3>
<span style="color: orange;"><b>What It <i>Isnae</i></b></span></h3>
A substitute for inexpensive, quality tools made available by Dr. Oldfield of <a href="http://www.penpractice.com/page3.html" target="_blank">penpractise.com</a>, among others, to open the bosses and fillers of more widespread, top flight vintage pen brands.<br />
<br />
<h3>
<span style="color: orange;"><b>Casting the C Ring</b></span></h3>
To make sure the epoxy wouldn't bond to the boss whilst setting, the threads got a coat of <a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/red-rubber-grease" target="_blank">red rubber grease</a>, followed by a single wrap of teflon tape. RRG helps preserve and lubricate rubber; I used it just because it's rubber safe like silicone grease, easier to see, and easier to wash off after use.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/EyedropperBossRedRubberGrease.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/EyedropperBossRedRubberGrease.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>Red rubber grease on the boss.</b></i><b>..</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
As well as acting as a secondary epoxy barrier, the RRG helped keep the teflon tape in place as it was wound around the boss. I only used a single wrap of tape round the boss' circumference, so that the epoxy could take as sharp an impression of the threads as safely possible.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/EyedropperBossTeflonTape.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/EyedropperBossTeflonTape.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">.<i><b>..Followed by teflon tape (plumber's tape).</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Winding an extra length of teflon round the entire barrel reduced the risk of getting extraneous bits of epoxy on the pen as I manipulated a blob round the boss' threads. Safety first!<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/EyedropperCRingToolB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/EyedropperCRingToolB.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>A C ring tool after casting. This one got an exterior impression of the plier<br /> teeth, as well as an interior impression of the boss threads.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
The metal epoxy putty used was <a href="http://www.bostik.co.uk/diy/product/evo-stik/Hard-Fast-Metal-Epoxy-Putty/125" target="_blank">Evo-Stik Hard & Fast</a>. You chop off a slice, mix the two colours together until uniform, and "within 2 minutes of mixing, apply to surface pressing firmly". I found that powderless disposable vinyl gloves worked best for this, one pair to mix the stuff, another to apply the epoxy to the threads. Latex gloves tended to stick to the putty during last week's tests. Leaving it longer than two minutes made it easier to form a C ring as the stuff became stiffer, and more difficult to get a good thread impression for the same reason. Stick to the 2 minute rule! <br />
<br />
The photo above shows a C ring tool shortly after casting (the epoxy is fuilly cured after an hour). It took a good, clear impression of the threads, taking some of the teflon tape off as it was unscrewed from the boss. Cleanup was with a ph neutral, fragrance free soap and a soft child's toothbrush, brushing along the threads rather than across them.<br />
<h3>
</h3>
<h3>
<br /><b><span style="color: orange;">Using the C ring to remove the threaded boss from the pen's barrel </span></b></h3>
Not knowing if the boss was left-loosey or not, I wanted to make sure resistance from other factors was kept to a minimum. This meant the usual dry heating, and also some glycerine tipped into the barrel, to hopefully act as a "rubber safe, better than nothing" penetrating fluid (the pen was orientated nib-up as removal was attempted). <br />
<br />
Between the heat, C ring and glycerine, the pen-gods were appeased, the boss simply gliding out of the barrel on a standard lefty-loosy thread with the C ring lightly clamped around it, and smooth section pliers rotating the barrel in the heat stream of a hairdryer. After all that preparation, it took less than 5 minutes! Talk about an anti-climax!<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/CastJapaneseEyedropperCRingToolInAction002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/CastJapaneseEyedropperCRingToolInAction002.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>The glycerine soaked boss, immediately after removal from the barrel.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
As before, cleanup was with soapy water and a good rinse.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/EyedropperBossRemovedFromBarrel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/EyedropperBossRemovedFromBarrel.jpg" height="320" width="255" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>The boss, freed from the barrel. Remnants of the glycerine<br /> are visible at the topmost threads.</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Macro shots of the threads (click thumbs to zoom):<br />
<span style="color: orange;"><br /></span>
<br />
<h3>
<span style="color: orange;"><b>Boss Before Casting The C Ring</b></span></h3>
<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo BeforeCRingCasting1.jpg" border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/th_BeforeCRingCasting1.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo BeforeCRingCasting2.jpg" border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/th_BeforeCRingCasting2.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo BeforeCRingCasting3.jpg" border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/th_BeforeCRingCasting3.jpg" /></a> <br />
<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo BeforeCRingCasting4.jpg" border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/th_BeforeCRingCasting4.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<h3>
<span style="color: orange;"><b>Boss After Casting the C Ring</b></span></h3>
<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo AfterCRingCasting1.jpg" border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/th_AfterCRingCasting1.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo AfterCRingCasting2.jpg" border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/th_AfterCRingCasting2.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo AfterCRingCasting3.jpg" border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/th_AfterCRingCasting3.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo AfterCRingCasting4.jpg" border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/th_AfterCRingCasting4.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo AfterCRingCasting5.jpg" border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/th_AfterCRingCasting5.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>
<b><span style="color: orange;">Boss After Clamping the C Ring & Removing the Boss </span></b></h3>
<br />
<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo AfterCringclamping001.jpg" border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/th_AfterCringclamping001.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo AfterCringclamping002.jpg" border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/th_AfterCringclamping002.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo AfterCringclamping003.jpg" border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/th_AfterCringclamping003.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo AfterCringclamping004.jpg" border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/th_AfterCringclamping004.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img alt=" photo AfterCringclamping005.jpg" border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/th_AfterCringclamping005.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>
<span style="color: orange;"><b>BOSS DRUM!</b></span></h3>
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/CgSPpiUvOzo" width="420"></iframe><br />
<br />
<h3>
<span style="color: orange;">Afterthots</span></h3>
Of course, getting the boss out of the pen is only the beginning of this repair. I still have to get at whatever felt, cork or rubber sealing material is within, and replace it. We'll see! The two rough areas above and below the boss are the next areas of investigation. Hopefully one of them will provide access!<br />
<br />Flounderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10833480240480323762noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7686114651350806146.post-3403724547186131482014-04-25T23:08:00.000+01:002014-04-25T23:08:32.468+01:00Casting Custom C Ring Tools for Obscure Fountain Pens (III)Progress vid on the metal-epoxy-as-disposable-C-ring-tool tests. For those who prefer text to youtube clips, conclusions are:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><span style="color: orange;"><b>Red rubber grease and teflon tape have prevented the epoxy from binding to the threaded boss whilst curing in every instance.</b></span></li>
<li><span style="color: orange;"><b>The epoxy made a good cast from metal and plastic boss dummy run threads, and of the suspected BHR threads of the fountain pen's boss itself.</b></span></li>
</ul>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="480" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/ULauTB1OQfM" width="640"></iframe></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<br />
Apologies for the less than lively audio, bit of a cold coming on!<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/EyedropperCRingToolB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/EyedropperCRingToolB.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>A bespoke metal epoxy C ring tool for the eyedropper packing boss, after casting in situ.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<i><b>A Suivre:</b></i></div>
I guess there's nothing left to do but try the tool on the pen (gulp). Flounderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10833480240480323762noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7686114651350806146.post-59964883809032947282014-04-16T21:30:00.002+01:002014-04-16T21:37:11.273+01:00Casting Custom C Ring Tools for Obscure Fountain Pens (II)Just a short update on the 'casting bespoke C rings from obscure fountain pens using metal epoxy' trials today; the epoxy has done a good job of taking an impression of the plastic football air pump adaptor, despite the shallow plastic threads, and the big ugly injection line across them. This is an encouraging development, and gives me confidence for the risky business ahead!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/PlasticFootballValveAdaptorTest003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/PlasticFootballValveAdaptorTest003.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>The plastic valve adaptor after a smear of RRG and a wrap of teflon tape.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The red rubber grease & teflon tape have prevented the epoxy from adhering in every test so far, so that aspect of these experiments is performing well enough to consider low risk. I'm comfortable with the idea of applying the epoxy to the Japanese eyedropper mentioned in the <a href="http://flounders-mindthots.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/casting-custom-c-ring-tools-for-obscure.html" target="_blank">previous post</a>, and don't think the epoxy will stick to its boss based on experience thus far.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/PlasticFootballValveAdaptorTest005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/PlasticFootballValveAdaptorTest005.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>The C ring has taken a good impression of the valve's threads.</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The epoxy coped very well with the plastic valve adaptor's injection molded, indistinct threads! This is really good news, as it should do even better with the pen's well defined, die cut threads.<br />
<br />
So where to from here? The major unanswered question is this; <b><i>If </i></b>the eyedropper's boss its threaded in, will it withstand the clamping pressure necessary to grip the thing and rotate it? I'm 90% sure the boss is made of BHR (black hard rubber). Who knows?<br />
<br />
<br />
Till next time,<br />
<br />
<br />
Flounder <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Flounderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10833480240480323762noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7686114651350806146.post-23128400821621656392014-04-14T22:36:00.001+01:002014-04-14T22:36:20.043+01:00Casting Custom C Ring Tools for Obscure Fountain PensLately, I've been wracking my noggin over how best to open up this vintage fountain pen, sold to me as a "1930s Japanese eyedropper". The shut-off valve shaft seal is no longer watertight, so I'd like to remove the threaded boss at the end of the barrel, preferably without breaking anything.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/JapaneseEyedropperwShutoff.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Casting%20Disposable%20Fountain%20Pen%20Tools/JapaneseEyedropperwShutoff.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Left hand thread? Right hand? </i><i>Glued in?</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
This wouldn't be a problem but for the fact that being, well, a 1930's Japanese eyedropper, the thread diameter and pitch are understandably proprietary. There are no off-the-shelf vac tools for this chap. I've been trialling metal epoxy putty as a disposable, single use C ring tool on various odds & sods, and will carry on till I feel ready to give it a go on the actual pen.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<embed src="//www.youtube.com/v/c_zQqOVLAn8?version=3&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="640" height="480" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object></code></div>
<br />Subtitles have been provided for non-Weegies. More on this as and when it happens! If it all works out, I will blog all the details, some photographs, &c.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
All the best,<br />
<br />
<br />
FlounderFlounderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10833480240480323762noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7686114651350806146.post-46643800565185744402014-04-01T08:42:00.001+01:002014-04-10T19:46:16.269+01:00Hero 616 FlighterToday may be the start of the new tax year, but the <a href="http://en.hero.com.cn/hero.html" target="_blank">Shangai Hero Pen Company</a> has raised a smile at Flounder's Mindthots this morning with news of a new limited edition fountain pen!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Flighter/Hero616Flighter003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Flighter/Hero616Flighter003.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>What a great start to the day!</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The company president, Lyk Lee Ztohree announced the brand new Hero 616 Flighter, released today.<br />
<br />
"The original 616 was synonymous with the quality control and bold imaginative design we value so much here at Hero. As our new flagship model, the Flighter builds on the reputation of its plastic bodied predecessor, using a startling metal cap, metal barrel combination we've never seen in other manufacturers' designs", he said.<br />
<br />
"Not even a quick peek - honest".<br />
<br />
The new pen, available from all good retailers "and a few crap ones", will come in three standard nib sizes: Music, Hebrew, and a Left Foot Oblique Italic. The Flighter's "Chimeraculous" ink system never requires refilling, instead drawing moisture from the air to liquefy pigments impregnated in the feed.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Flighter/Hero616Flighter005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Flighter/Hero616Flighter005.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>From left to right: Hero 616 Flighter, Parker 51 Vacumatic.</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Flighter/Hero616Flighter004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Flighter/Hero616Flighter004.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>The vertical lines etched into the cap are echoed in the barrel.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Flighter/Hero616Flighter001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Flighter/Hero616Flighter001.jpg" height="259" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>Cap/clip detail</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Flighter/Hero616Flighter010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Flighter/Hero616Flighter010.jpg" height="246" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>The 616 Flighter alongside some old pen of no especial account.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Must dash folks!<br />
Flounder <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Flounderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10833480240480323762noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7686114651350806146.post-44578644038125240722014-03-10T20:27:00.000+00:002014-03-12T01:25:22.956+00:00Saphir Shoe Wax: Spiffing Stuff.During a recent sodden weekend, I finally snapped at the sight of my creased, scuffed, dirty (though still very comfy) Eccos. After 20 daunting minutes of style forum lurking, I ordered some 'Saphir' brand waxes, and set to work with leather cleaner and conditioner till they arrived. I've got to admit they've made a tremendous difference, enough to draw comment on my 'new' shoes!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Saphir%20Medaille%20Dor%20Shoe%20Polish/SaphirMedailleDOrShoePolish002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Saphir%20Medaille%20Dor%20Shoe%20Polish/SaphirMedailleDOrShoePolish002.jpg" height="400" width="380" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>There's no 'before' shot I'm afraid, but<br /> the take home message is 'big difference'.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I'm definitely not an authority on this sort of thing. The gist of what I've read is that it's a caddish disgrace to mirror polish the entire shoe. With that kept in mind, I gave the worst scuffs a few applications from the 'Bordeaux' tin. After that, the whole shoe was brush polished with "Neutral', then the toe box & counter spit shined. Gobbing on things does not appeal as a rule, so I used water instead of actual spit.<br />
<br />
I still don't 'do' shoe trees - just look at the state of the creases above - but after all the unexpected flattery, might well reconsider!<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: orange;"><b>Links</b></span><br />
Many, many threads from <a href="http://www.styleforum.net/" target="_blank">styleforum.net</a> and <a href="http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/" target="_blank">askandyaboutclothes.com</a><br />
I found <a href="http://www.hangerproject.com/blog/category/brand-profiles/saphir/" target="_blank">this chart</a> at thehangerproject very helpful choosing from the multitude of polish colours.<br />
Lastly, Dandy Shoe Care's captivating and disturbing YouTube clip (embedded below) serves as a great visual metaphor for the dizzying high of Saphir Neutral's mind bending turpentine fug.<br />
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<br />
<span id="goog_340292634"></span><span id="goog_340292635"></span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/LJjN_I1VFfM" width="560"></iframe><br /></div>
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<br />Flounderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10833480240480323762noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7686114651350806146.post-82036891075147722722014-02-19T22:46:00.001+00:002014-03-10T21:07:26.188+00:00Kaigelu 316 Fountain Pen Weight Balance Mod<span style="color: orange;"><b>[10th March Update - Richard's whipped up a fresh batch of finials, available from the <a href="http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/classifieds/item/25841-acrylic-kaigelu-316-barrel-finials/" target="_blank">FPN classifieds</a>]</b></span> <br />
<br />
Remember the Kaigelu 316, bargain priced Duofold style pen first discussed here <a href="http://flounders-mindthots.blogspot.com/2013/03/kaigelu-316-plunger-filler-introduction.html" target="_blank">back in March</a>? I'm revisiting the topic today because I've just received a couple of spare parts that boost the classy Kaigelu's tactile writing experience straight up the express elevator to nimbus 9.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Kaigelu%20316%20Acrylic%20Finial/Kaigelu316AcrylicFinial.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Kaigelu%20316%20Acrylic%20Finial/Kaigelu316AcrylicFinial.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>A Kaigelu 316 with acrylic finial fitted, <br />brass original in background.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
As standard, the 316 has a peculiarly back weighted balance. This is due to the brass finial at the end of the barrel. For short notes, it's not noticable enough to be a concern; for flat out, long writing sessions, I've found that finial to become an irksome pendulum, progressively making my handwriting more sloppy. The simple solution is a lighter replacement finial made of plastic, which completely transforms the balance into something more comfortable, and far more enjoyable to write with.<br />
<br />
I say 'simple' solution, because this is my favourite mod yet - one where the tricky stuff has been done for me! The finial was custom turned for me by richardandtracy, one of the forum moderators over at <a href="http://fountainpennetwork.com/" target="_blank">fountainpennetwork.com.</a><br />
<br />
The swap was pretty easy going:<br />
<br />
<span style="color: orange;">1. Pour a little water just off the boil into the barrel, to loosen the glue holding the finial in place.</span><br />
<span style="color: orange;">2. Make a cup of tea, to give the glue time to loosen.</span><br />
<span style="color: orange;">3. Give the finial a wiggle to help the bond break, then pull it out. I used a pair of spark plug pliers*.</span><br />
<span style="color: orange;">4. Shellac the replacement finial in.</span><br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Kaigelu%20316%20Acrylic%20Finial/Kaigelu316AcrylicFinialsswap.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Kaigelu%20316%20Acrylic%20Finial/Kaigelu316AcrylicFinialsswap.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Brewing a nice cup of Kaigelu.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
The finials (I bought two) are really well made, and nicely polished too. Feeling slightly miffed at my lack of involvement, I consoled myself with boring out the finial, so that the barrel could still accomodate two short international cartridges back-to-back, or one long international cart.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Kaigelu%20316%20Acrylic%20Finial/Kaigelu316AcrylicFinialwithMagnumrounds.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Kaigelu%20316%20Acrylic%20Finial/Kaigelu316AcrylicFinialwithMagnumrounds.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>By boring out the finial spigot, the Kaigelu's barrel<br /> can still accept those long bendy International carts.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Let's round things off with a poorly composed and executed close up, showing a comparison of the plastic finial and painted brass factory original. It's as well made as it looks.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Kaigelu%20316%20Acrylic%20Finial/Kaigelu316AcrylicFinialscomparisonwithbrassoriginal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Kaigelu%20316%20Acrylic%20Finial/Kaigelu316AcrylicFinialscomparisonwithbrassoriginal.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>The acrylic plastic finial fitted to barrel, looking as good<br /> as the original, and weighing much less.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
Ciao for now! <br />
<br />
Flounder<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
*Now that they've seen actual, bona fide use under a car bonnet, I'm going to forgo the term 'section pliers'. <br />
<br />
<br />Flounderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10833480240480323762noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7686114651350806146.post-63736399838958403932014-01-02T21:57:00.003+00:002014-01-05T03:02:40.730+00:00Easy Huawei Smartphone Touchscreen FixOh NO! If you've arrived at this post having smashed your Huawei smart phone off a hard floor, the display okay but the touchscreen rendered useless by a huge ugly crack in the glass, <b><i>stop worrying now.</i></b> You can totally fix this. The spare part is inexpensive; the icing on the cake is that replacing the digitizer leaves the phone looking like new too!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Huawei%20Smartphone%20Touchscreen%20Fix/HuaweiDigitizerReplacement002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Huawei%20Smartphone%20Touchscreen%20Fix/HuaweiDigitizerReplacement002.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Windex won't help this time!</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
As thin as it looks, the Huawei Blaze is surprisingly easy to service:<br />
<ul>
<li>You can replace the touchscreen "digitizer" (the smashed fancy capacitive glass layer) very easily. </li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>There are no surface mounted components to solder, and there is no Apple-esque adhesive bonding the digitizer layer to the LCD. </li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>If you are prone to breaking plastic catches, that's fine too - they're all on the digitizer side, and you'll be swapping that out for a fresh one. </li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>There are only 10 screws to remove. They're just normal screws, not torx head or anything you need special screwdrivers for.</li>
</ul>
<br />
In my case, I bought an OEM Huawei Blaze/U8510 digitizer from a UK based eBay seller for £19.50, being too impatient to wait for international shipping. Let's push on to the step-by-step photos (click any photo for the hi-res blow ups). <br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: orange;">Step One</span></b><br />
Remove the battery cover, and take out the battery, simcard, and microSD memory card. There are 6 visible cross head screws to be removed from the back of the phone, circled in green. One is hidden behind a piece of anti-tamper paper, highlighted in red. I like to use sellotape and a crude diagram to stop myself losing tiny screws etc. during this sort of thing.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Huawei%20Smartphone%20Touchscreen%20Fix/HuaweiDigitizerReplacement005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="179" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Huawei%20Smartphone%20Touchscreen%20Fix/HuaweiDigitizerReplacement005.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Thankfully, there are no awkward disassembly surprises here.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<b><span style="color: orange;">Step Two</span></b><br />
Flip the phone over to its front, and remove the 4 visible screws, circled in green. That's all of the screwdriver work done with.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Huawei%20Smartphone%20Touchscreen%20Fix/HuaweiDigitizerReplacement004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Huawei%20Smartphone%20Touchscreen%20Fix/HuaweiDigitizerReplacement004.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Removing the rest of the screws.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: orange;"><b>Step Three</b></span><br />
Prise the digitizer from the phone using the transparent catches on the bezel surround (circled) . It doesn't matter if they break off, the new digitizer comes with a fresh surround. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Huawei%20Smartphone%20Touchscreen%20Fix/HuaweiDigitizerReplacement006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="222" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Huawei%20Smartphone%20Touchscreen%20Fix/HuaweiDigitizerReplacement006.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Popping open the bezel catches.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
After freeing the catches, it is best to pivot the digitizer away from the phone from left to right, so as not to stress the short ribbon connector (arrowed in red). At this point, the rubber volume control (circled in blue) may fall out of the phone. Same goes for the metal home button and power button. Keep them handy.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Huawei%20Smartphone%20Touchscreen%20Fix/HuaweiDigitizerReplacement007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="215" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Huawei%20Smartphone%20Touchscreen%20Fix/HuaweiDigitizerReplacement007.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>That line you see across the LCD panel <br />is just a reflection of the damaged digitizer layer.</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: orange;"><b>Step Four</b></span><br />
Prise the ribbon's brown connector block from the backside of the circuit board to finally free the broken digizer from the phone.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Huawei%20Smartphone%20Touchscreen%20Fix/HuaweiDigitizerReplacement009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Huawei%20Smartphone%20Touchscreen%20Fix/HuaweiDigitizerReplacement009.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Perhaps 'prise' is the wrong word. The connector block <br />takes minimal effort to unplug from the circuit board.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: orange;"><b>Step Five</b></span><br />
Comparing the old and new digitizer, you'll notice that the £20 replacement cost doesn't quite stretch to the speaker and whathaveyou, highlighted in green. They're pretty easy to transfer over from the old one. I left the packaging cellophane on the new digitizer's glass, to avoid thumb prints during the swap over.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Huawei%20Smartphone%20Touchscreen%20Fix/HuaweiDigitizerReplacement013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="253" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Huawei%20Smartphone%20Touchscreen%20Fix/HuaweiDigitizerReplacement013.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Comparing the old & new digitizer.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Here's a close-up of the parts that need transferring. I found it easiest to remove the speaker from the old digitizer by pushing it in from the front.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Huawei%20Smartphone%20Touchscreen%20Fix/HuaweiDigitizerReplacement016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Huawei%20Smartphone%20Touchscreen%20Fix/HuaweiDigitizerReplacement016.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Donor parts go here.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: orange;"><b>Step Six</b></span><br />
Plug the new digitizer's ribbon connector (circled in green) into the phone's circuit board. As the socket is on the board's backside, I found access made easier by first disconnecting another connector (circled in orange). After they're both reconnected, it's time to put the physical power, volume and home buttons back in position. Leave peeling off the screen cellophane (by pulling the tab circled in blue) to last, so the glass is kept smudge and dust free.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Huawei%20Smartphone%20Touchscreen%20Fix/HuaweiDigitizerReplacement021.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Huawei%20Smartphone%20Touchscreen%20Fix/HuaweiDigitizerReplacement021.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Not long to go now. If you're a freak like me, you can use <br />a small paintbrush to shift any dust <br />from the LCD at this stage.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: orange;"><b>Step Seven</b></span><br />
Engage the side clips (circled in green) of the new digitizer to the phone, and replace the screws front & back. Insert the sim card, memory card, and battery.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Huawei%20Smartphone%20Touchscreen%20Fix/HuaweiDigitizerReplacement029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Huawei%20Smartphone%20Touchscreen%20Fix/HuaweiDigitizerReplacement029.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Closing up.</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
That's all! The screen looks dull in the photo below for two reasons; smart phone
withdrawal made me rush the photography, and I had yet to peel off the outer
protective cellophane from the new digitizer! <br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Huawei%20Smartphone%20Touchscreen%20Fix/HuaweiDigitizerReplacement030.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Huawei%20Smartphone%20Touchscreen%20Fix/HuaweiDigitizerReplacement030.jpg" width="238" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Huzzah!</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Wishing you health, wealth & happiness for 2014,<br />
<br />
Flounder<br />
<br />
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<br />Flounderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10833480240480323762noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7686114651350806146.post-26094183716506565792013-10-03T20:17:00.001+01:002013-10-03T22:24:06.538+01:00Clearing a Blocked Parker Frontier Cartridge Nipple<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Parker%20Frontier%20Cartridge%20Nipple%20Clearing/Frontier003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Parker%20Frontier%20Cartridge%20Nipple%20Clearing/Frontier003.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>Left to right: blocked M nib Frontier section,<br />clear B nib Frontier section. </b></i></td></tr>
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So little goes wrong with cartridge pens that I was a little thrown when my medium-tip nibbed Parker Frontier started playing up. Despite giving the nib and feed a good clean, flow had become erratic, sometimes okay, and sometimes very miserly, even with a fresh cart installed. I hope this post makes for useful reading if you have a similar problem.<br />
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The Frontier is normally a real workhourse, supremely reliable. Parker cartridges are also some of the best there are, with channels thoughtfully molded in the interior to help prevent surface tension from spoiling the flow.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Parker%20Frontier%20Cartridge%20Nipple%20Clearing/ParkerCart.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="273" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Parker%20Frontier%20Cartridge%20Nipple%20Clearing/ParkerCart.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Internal channels in a Parker ink cartridge.</i></b></td></tr>
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Anyhoo, comparing the two sections, I finally spotted the cause of the flow issue. There's some kind of something partially blocking the cartridge nipple, highlighted below.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Parker%20Frontier%20Cartridge%20Nipple%20Clearing/Frontier004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="395" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Parker%20Frontier%20Cartridge%20Nipple%20Clearing/Frontier004.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>Without a bright light and another section to compare it to, <br />I'd probably have overlooked this blockage!</b></i></td></tr>
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As Parker adopted a fab screw-in nib & feed design for the Frontier, clearing out the cart nipple was a doddle. In homage to and in appreciation of Hamish McNagg's great YouTube clips (kindly hosted on <a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/sbrebrown" target="_blank">Stephen Brown's channel</a>), I've uploaded a wee vid illustrating this, embedded below. Hi from Glasgow, Hamish!<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/m2akOrXBMaI" width="420"></iframe></div>
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Till next time,<br />
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Flounder<br />
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<br />Flounderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10833480240480323762noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7686114651350806146.post-16680182821968231602013-09-24T23:56:00.000+01:002013-09-25T00:05:14.011+01:00VHS Lives!Say what you will of grainy, bulky, obsolete old VHS tapes. Shiny DVDs and Blu-Rays cut no ice when it comes to the humane capture and release of gross bugs. For anything creepy, hairy, dusty and leggy, stick to analogue, that's my advice.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/VHS%20Spider/VHSvsSpider.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/VHS%20Spider/VHSvsSpider.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>As big, and almost as thick, as a phone.</i></b></td></tr>
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I'm not sure of the exact genus this speedy chap hails from, perhaps "Facehugger" is as good a categorisation as any.<br />
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I don't want to cause undue anxiety, so if you're reading this on a smartphone, I won't mention the slim possibility that one of his brethren is clinging behind your screen, about to scuttle up your sleeve this very moment, compound eyes glistening and mandibles chomping at the thought of your juicy ripe flesh.<br />
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Sleep tight :-)<br />
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Flounder<br />
<br />Flounderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10833480240480323762noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7686114651350806146.post-30068187574163049732013-08-19T21:54:00.000+01:002013-08-19T22:00:06.716+01:00Cleaning Parker 51 CollectorsAside from perfect size, shape, weight, balance, strength and affordability, one of the things I really appreciate about the seminal Parker 51 is the enormous ink regulating collector within the section. It's a large part of what makes writing with the 51 such a sublime experience.<br />
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Disassembling the hood and cleaning out the collector is something I generally do only once per pen, on first receipt of each 51. After that, I periodically clean them out by flushing through with clean water, occasionally filling with water and leaving aside for a week while out of rotation. With standard Diamine ink, that's all they've needed - I'm not into super saturated inks or archival iron galls.<br />
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The collector is full of thin fins, and even after flushing, half a century of old ink can leave debris trapped between them. To floss without fear of damaging the fins - which are far less delicate than they look - I like to use a humble plastic CD/DVD envelope.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Parker51%20Collector%20Cleaning/CleaningParker51Collectors006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="404" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Parker51%20Collector%20Cleaning/CleaningParker51Collectors006.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>The flap of this CD envelope easily slots between the Parker 51's collector fins.</i></b></td></tr>
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<span style="color: orange;"><b>Why</b></span><br />
These envelopes are:<br />
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<li>Thin enough to fit between the collector fins easily.</li>
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<li>Very flexible - it's almost <i>impossible </i>to damage the collector through clumsiness. </li>
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<li>Inexpensive and ubiquitous. </li>
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<li>Lint free - there's nothing to shed off the plastic envelope and potentially clog the fins.</li>
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<li>Transparent - you can see exactly what you're doing.</li>
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<b><span style="color: orange;">How</span></b><br />
Holding the collector off the desk so that there's plenty of light around the fins, I use the open flap of the envelope to floss out any dried up detritus. Occassionally, there are deposits that prove reluctant to be flossed. These can be walked around to the broad air channel, then flicked out using the same flap.<br />
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In the example collector below, the majority of the fins are clean and clear. The arrowed fins have some kind of gunk trapped between them right at the root, near the thin ink channel. The CD envelope flap in the background will get rid of it in a few seconds without stressing the fins.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Parker51%20Collector%20Cleaning/CleaningParker51Collectors007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Parker51%20Collector%20Cleaning/CleaningParker51Collectors007.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Out, damned spot! Out , I say!</i></b></td></tr>
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Zap! A pass of the flap between the fins' gap picks up the crap before you can, er... doff your cap.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Parker51%20Collector%20Cleaning/CleaningParker51Collectors009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Parker51%20Collector%20Cleaning/CleaningParker51Collectors009.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>The outed spot.</b></i></td></tr>
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The CD envelope is also thin enough to help clean out the collector's thin ink channel itself.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Parker51%20Collector%20Cleaning/CleaningParker51Collectors015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Parker51%20Collector%20Cleaning/CleaningParker51Collectors015.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>Cleaning out a P51 collector's ink channel using a <br />CD envelope and fragrance free, pH neutral soap.</b></i></td></tr>
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Before reassembly, I like to double check the shim is still in place, if cleaning an early style collector.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Parker51%20Collector%20Cleaning/CleaningParker51Collectors010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Parker51%20Collector%20Cleaning/CleaningParker51Collectors010.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>A shimmed early collector. The shim shown is a substitute<br /> for the missing original, which tend to be a bit longer.</i></b></td></tr>
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Toodle-oo for noo,<br />
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Flounder<br />
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<br />Flounderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10833480240480323762noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7686114651350806146.post-70226776627427799662013-08-15T22:59:00.002+01:002013-08-16T00:10:43.707+01:00Mindthotless Coastal WanderingsSomething I've learned to accept about myself is that I have no interest at all in treadmills and cycling machines and the like. For cardiovascular exercise, I prefer a long walk outdoors.<br />
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Even better is a clamber along the Ayrshire coast, which offers a lively sea spray and the kind of magnificent, boulder strewn desolation that puts you in mind of Plesiosaurs, continental shifts, and the unsettling antiquity of the Earth.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Ayrshire%20Coast/IMG_20130805_181259_1024x768.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Ayrshire%20Coast/IMG_20130805_181259_1024x768.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Yeah, everybody's gone surfin'
... before being dashed to pieces.</i></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Ayrshire%20Coast/IMG_20130805_183809_1024x768.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Ayrshire%20Coast/IMG_20130805_183809_1024x768.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>This still qualifies as a 'sea view', right? </i></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Ayrshire%20Coast/IMG_20130805_181228_1024x768.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Ayrshire%20Coast/IMG_20130805_181228_1024x768.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>Quite a calm sea meant these smaller rocks were dry and unslippery. </b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Ayrshire%20Coast/IMG_20130805_185237_1024x768.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Ayrshire%20Coast/IMG_20130805_185237_1024x768.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>I'm surprised by how well the phone coped with this light. The sun was very low, dazzling me on the left as I took this shot.</b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>A sort-of sign of life.</i></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Ayrshire%20Coast/IMG_20130805_190856_1024x768.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Ayrshire%20Coast/IMG_20130805_190856_1024x768.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Aha! Hagshell clams. Avoid cheap farmed Haggis; they're often raised on Hagshell clams, which lends them a gritty texture. </i></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Ayrshire%20Coast/IMG_20130805_190400_1024x768.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Ayrshire%20Coast/IMG_20130805_190400_1024x768.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>What the Socrates! Sand! No more bouncing along like a billy-goat.</i></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Ayrshire%20Coast/IMG_20130805_180116_1024x768.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Ayrshire%20Coast/IMG_20130805_180116_1024x768.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Not a soul around. </i></b><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Ayrshire%20Coast/IMG_20130805_184321_1024x768.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Ayrshire%20Coast/IMG_20130805_184321_1024x768.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Doesn't this look tranquil? Actually, the wind was picking up. This easy going sandy stretch took me much further than I had meant to go!</i></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Ayrshire%20Coast/IMG_20130805_180204_1024x768.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Ayrshire%20Coast/IMG_20130805_180204_1024x768.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>I think that's Ailsa Craig in the middle distance. Uninhabited and still for sale, I believe.</b></i><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Ayrshire%20Coast/IMG_20130805_191052_1024x768.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Ayrshire%20Coast/IMG_20130805_191052_1024x768.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>Time to head back. My own footprints were the only ones I ever found. Observe the lack of tread; these old boots have put up with a DAS course and static line parachuting, but are getting a bit past it!</b></i></td></tr>
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Here's a wee clip to round off today's post. Till next time.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/R4rpQ856GIg" width="420"></iframe><br /></div>
Flounderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10833480240480323762noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7686114651350806146.post-27370818951640836692013-07-30T18:32:00.001+01:002013-07-30T18:32:27.945+01:00Cap Clip Swap for the Jumbo Hero 616See what I did there? Yep, the hackneyed old swap-the-title-to-represent-the-swap gag. Today's post is the reverse of the last; a few photos showing a gold Hero 616 cap fitted with a chrome clip.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Cap%20Adjustment%20Fix/Hero%20616%20Jumbo%20Clip%20Swap/Hero616JumboClipSwap008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Cap%20Adjustment%20Fix/Hero%20616%20Jumbo%20Clip%20Swap/Hero616JumboClipSwap008.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Ka-bling! Even with the clouds overhead, this combo is so shiny photography is a challenge.</i></b></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Cap%20Adjustment%20Fix/Hero%20616%20Jumbo%20Clip%20Swap/Hero616JumboClipSwap007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="398" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Cap%20Adjustment%20Fix/Hero%20616%20Jumbo%20Clip%20Swap/Hero616JumboClipSwap007.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>There's shine, and then there's glare. The 616 is glaring at me.</i></b></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Cap%20Adjustment%20Fix/Hero%20616%20Jumbo%20Clip%20Swap/Hero616JumboClipSwap006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Cap%20Adjustment%20Fix/Hero%20616%20Jumbo%20Clip%20Swap/Hero616JumboClipSwap006.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>The engraved line pattern and position of the band text is slightly different on the gold cap, I notice.</b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Cap%20Adjustment%20Fix/Hero%20616%20Jumbo%20Clip%20Swap/Hero616JumboClipSwap009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Cap%20Adjustment%20Fix/Hero%20616%20Jumbo%20Clip%20Swap/Hero616JumboClipSwap009.jpg" width="364" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>I shouldn't like this, but I do. The contrast is great. I like the idea of a workhorse pen that looks this eccentric.</i></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Cap%20Adjustment%20Fix/Hero%20616%20Jumbo%20Clip%20Swap/Hero616JumboClipSwap010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Cap%20Adjustment%20Fix/Hero%20616%20Jumbo%20Clip%20Swap/Hero616JumboClipSwap010.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>It sort of works, doesn't it? Perhaps because of the slight satin quality to the gold colour of the cap body.</i></b></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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While I'm on the subject of caps, I'm in the market for a <a href="http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/classifieds/item/20953-parker-51-chevron-band-silver-cap/" target="_blank">silver Parker 51 cap</a>. I don't hold out much hope finding one, but you never know your luck. <br />
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Till next time,<br />
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Flounder<br />
<br />Flounderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10833480240480323762noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7686114651350806146.post-74279925750253692092013-07-27T17:56:00.000+01:002013-08-01T01:20:39.713+01:00Hero 616 Jumbo Cap Clip SwapA while back, I was browsing <a href="http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/" target="_blank">FPN</a> and noted a fun wee 616 mod. A member named 'lint' had <a href="http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/210194-hero-616-cap-mod/" target="_blank">swapped the clips</a> from gold and silver Hero 616 caps to create a nice two-tone effect. Now that thunder and lightning have been hurled down as just punishment for our warm and sunny July, I've dug out the screwdriver & blutack to follow in his footsteps.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Cap%20Adjustment%20Fix/Hero%20616%20Jumbo%20Clip%20Swap/Hero616JumboClipSwap002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Cap%20Adjustment%20Fix/Hero%20616%20Jumbo%20Clip%20Swap/Hero616JumboClipSwap002.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Goldie clip, chromey cap, pretty pen.</i></b></td></tr>
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At £3.78 for a gold-capped 616 from eBay seller <a href="http://stores.ebay.co.uk/yespen" target="_blank">YesPen</a>, I'll say this is not too decadent a whimsy to indulge. The alternate gold cap/chrome clip combo is also quite striking, and you get a strong, small cardboard box and rigid plastic pen case too - very handy for reuse as decent pen packaging. As usual, the 616 Jumbo offers safe tinkering experience, this particular clip wanting far less tension to use on anything less than a permanent basis. Here's a few more pictures.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Cap%20Adjustment%20Fix/Hero%20616%20Jumbo%20Clip%20Swap/Hero616JumboClipSwap004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Cap%20Adjustment%20Fix/Hero%20616%20Jumbo%20Clip%20Swap/Hero616JumboClipSwap004.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>The stamping on the arrow feathers is actually pretty decent!</b></i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Cap%20Adjustment%20Fix/Hero%20616%20Jumbo%20Clip%20Swap/Hero616JumboClipSwap003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Cap%20Adjustment%20Fix/Hero%20616%20Jumbo%20Clip%20Swap/Hero616JumboClipSwap003.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>I've never quite got the hang of photographing shiny metal.</b></i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
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In the unlikely event anyone from Hero is reading; to commemorate your seven-billionth 616, or whatever, how about releasing a flighter model? I'd buy one - especially if the metal barrel had engraved lines like the cap!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Cap%20Adjustment%20Fix/Hero%20616%20Jumbo%20Clip%20Swap/Hero616JumboClipSwap005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Hero%20616%20Cap%20Adjustment%20Fix/Hero%20616%20Jumbo%20Clip%20Swap/Hero616JumboClipSwap005.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>For some inexplicable reason, this cap shape makes me think of Champagne.</b></i></td></tr>
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Till next time,<br />
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Flounder<br />
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<br />Flounderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10833480240480323762noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7686114651350806146.post-84113844809916918002013-06-10T17:46:00.000+01:002013-06-14T00:43:30.493+01:00Fountain Pen Imprint Highlighting<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Fountain%20Pen%20Imprint%20Highlighting/FountainPenBarrelImprintHighlight.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Fountain%20Pen%20Imprint%20Highlighting/FountainPenBarrelImprintHighlight.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Top to bottom: Summit S125, <a href="http://flounders-mindthots.blogspot.com/2009/09/udisassemblyu-here-is-my-snorkel-in-all_8688.html" target="_blank">Sheaffer Snorkel</a>, <br /><a href="http://flounders-mindthots.blogspot.com/2012/02/parker-british-duofold-button-filler.html" target="_blank">Parker Duofold AF</a>, Koh-I-Noor Chinagraph Pencil 3260/6.</i></b></td></tr>
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Here's something I've not considered before; highlighting barrel imprints. I have to say, I'm delighted with the results, using a wax based china marker (akin to a crayon) as demonstrated in the fine <a href="http://www.grandmiapens.com/" target="_blank">Grandmia Pens</a> video embedded below.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/rv_ovGCdOMI" width="560"></iframe><br /></div>
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The marker used was a white Koh-I-Noor 3260/6 bought from eBay seller <a href="http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Hobby-Art-And-Crafts" target="_blank">hobbyartandcraft</a>, for £1.69 including shipping. <br />
<br />Flounderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10833480240480323762noreply@blogger.com4